Installation begins with a site visit and water supply analysis then a site specific detailed estimate is prepared according to the customers needs. This work is completed by a Certified Irrigation Designer.
Upon approval, the system is marked out with marking flags by the Certified Irrigation Designer and the automatic controller location is determined.
The system is then installed using a Vibratory Plow, Trencher or combination of both. In most cases we will use the Vibratory Plow which slices the ground pulling the pipe behind it minimizing turf damage. In most cases we can cross under driveways and walk’s without cutting and patching.
All systems are designed using multi-program controllers with 365 day calendars, seasonal adjust, back-up batteries and rain sensors to meet site specific watering needs and watering restrictions (if any) to help conserve water.
The following is a list of some of the equipment we use during the installation process-
All systems are installed with a rain sensor. The sensor will deactivate the system after a pre-set amount of rainfall has accumulated. This acts to conserve water and eliminates the need to manually turn the controller on and off during periods of rainfall.
A combination of sprinkler heads, set at differing pop-up heights, to suite plant type being watered will be used in combination with check valves for water conservation. Each type of spray head, with a brief description of its function, follows-
- Rotors – used for large, open areas
- Spray or mist heads – used for smaller areas
- Drip or micro spray – used for planting beds and other specialty areas such as flower
pots, hanging baskets, problem lawn areas along curbing or lawn between patio stones, and other areas where overhead watering is an issue. (IN THE DROUGHT OF 2002 MOST MUNICIPALITIES PERMITTED WATERING WITH DRIP IRRIGATION EVEN WHEN OTHER METHODS OF IRRIGATION WERE RESTRICTED OR SUSPENDED)
All heads are zoned according to type of head, precipitation rate, slope, exposure, and type of plant material being watered using high quality zone valves with waterproof wire connections in valve boxes. Valve boxes will be hidden in planting beds or against the house whenever possible. Drip irrigation zones also require a filter and regulator assembly.
All water connections to below grade outside of the house are TYPE “L” copper with full port ball valve for seasonal shut off, drain valve for winterizing the system, and proper backflow prevention device to meet local code and prevent backflow of contaminants thru the irrigation system into your drinking water supply.
All underground piping is 100 PSI pure virgin polyethylene tubing with stainless steel clamps or PVC pipe with threaded or solvent weld fittings.
All 24 volt control wiring is direct burial type UF wire with waterproof connections at valves.
Upon completion of system installation a number of tests are preformed to ensure system integrity. Your new irrigation system will be pressurized with water, all piping will be flushed out, sprinkler heads are adjusted, the controller will be set, all disturbed areas are raked out and seeded and a demonstration of the system is performed.
THINGS TO WATCH OUT FOR:
1] Not all controllers are the same. Some controllers are not equipped with surge or lightning protection, some do not have 365 day calendars and have to be changed at the end of the month to accommodate odd or even water restrictions and some are not equipped with battery back-up. And, if you feel that you’ll need additional watering zones in the future then plan now. CUTTING CORNERS HERE CAN COST A LOT MORE LATELR!
2] Using the same type of head for all areas, spacing sprinkler heads too far apart , the mixing of different types of heads or placing sprinkler heads and drip systems on the same zone will cause some areas to be excessively wet, or dry. Each type of plant life requires differing amounts of water and at differing rates. It’s also best to keep lawn and shrubs separate whenever possible.
3] Some contractors do not use the proper backflow prevention measures and some don’t use any at all! It is a violation of state code to bypass the use these measures. Backflow prevention is for the protection of the drinking water we all enjoy and it’s very important to have the right device for each application. Michael C. Palotta Lawn Irrigation, Inc respects these codes and uses backflow prevention on every system we install.
4] We use sprinkler heads with check valves which cost more but the increase in cost is well worth it. Check valves reduce low head drainage which not only conserves water and saves money, but also helps to reduce water hammer within the system. By keeping the piping filled with water, the system will not have to refill the lines every time it starts up. This prevents unneeded banging and stress on piping and fittings thus prolonging the life of your system.
5] All systems should have a rain sensor. They pay for themselves over and over again. Don’t let anyone tell you they don’t work – they do and they’re necessary!
6] All wire connections should be made using an approved waterproof wire connector inside a valve box. Some contractors use black tape or wire nuts and bury the wiring.
|
|
